Doolin around? Doolin banjos?

We all seem to be feeling much better today. After breakfast, in my case smoked mackerel...

....we headed off to the Gallarus Oratory, which we could not find. We did find the Kilmalkedar Church ruin dating back to the 12th century. The site itself was likely founded in the 600s.

Then we moved on to find the Carrigafoyle Castle, an example of the tower-houses built in the 14th-15th century. However, it only took a 3 day siege to level surrounding walls and take the tower. The wind blows hard all the time around here - there is no way you could keep such a place warm. And the heating bills!

Cody was determined to follow the steps. It took a while to get him to move on. 

The bank holiday means a whole bunch of folks are out for the weekend, plus this area is generally much more touristy anyway. We had a lot of company on some narrow roads, including a fair number of buses. Our rental had excellent acceleration, and given the opportunity, Vicki would leave newbie drivers in the Burren dust.

We were very glad to reach Doolin. And then to find this view out the window of our room. Those be the northern edge of the Cliffs of Moher. Plans are for us to see them from the water as well.

Into Lisdoonvarna for dinner. They get a lot from the nearby Burren Smokehouse, so we had smoked local salmon (about 4 different ways), mackerel, and trout. They also brew a Burren golden ale, red ale, and stout, so those had to be tried as well.

There was live traditional music at O'Connors pub in Doolin, so I walked to town and snagged a seat close to the group playing. Loved it. The place was packed and about 80 degrees, but the music was fun. 

The fiddler on the left was apparently sitting in with the 4 regulars, and she wasn't quite up to the talents of the fiddler on the right. When she got in over her head, she often chose to just get up and dance. 

Here is a short video so you can hear a little - and see the woman dance: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFNY2DCX2D4

Here's my 180 view (Ok, maybe 160 degree view).

Walked back by the light of a nearly full moon. Nice.

Down for the day

Whatever Vicki and Cody have and are recovering from, I managed to get it as well. So pictures from the day are limited.

Here is where I spent most of the day. 

This is what it is doing outside.

Cody and I went early to take laundry. That pooped me out. I went back and crashed. Vicki and Cody went out for a while. We've been hanging out here since. 

I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on hurling (absolutely crazy Irish sport combining lacrosse, field hockey, baseball, and spoon racing. It is crazy and they are crazy about it.), playing the bohdran (I have one that I never learned to play - maybe now?), and how the Irish react to trying foods we consider Irish - for the first time. The. I watched the FA final between Arsenal and Aston Vilła. Arsenal won 4-0. You'd think their coach might crack a smile, but he looked worse than this the entire match. Only after the last second did he allow a clap. He actually smiled later. It must have hurt.

This is a bohdran and a link to a guy playing it solo. 

http://youtu.be/3ChbigufBC8

I hauled one of these around the southeast of Ireland about 15 years ago. It now hangs on the wall in our house.

I would have seen someone playing this in O'Flaherty's if I were well. A classic Irish bar, at least in my eyes.

Everyone you see in the photo was very nice, but especially the bartender.

I'm done. The Blarney Stone gave me the ability to talk at length about almost nothing! Bed time.

 

Saturday in Dingle

'There's not much to report today, except that Cody seems to be back at 100%, I'm at about 70%, and Dan has spent the day in bed. It's just as well, since this is the scene at Dingle Bay:

This is a nasty little virus, but luckily, it's short-lived. After driving from Kenmare to Dingle yesterday. I climbed into bed - at about 4:00 in the afternoon - and did not get out until almost 8 this morning. However, by lunchtime, I was ready for some food, so I tried house-cured and smoked salmon at Out of the Blue restaurant, which is only open when there is fresh fish to be served. 

Cody had scallops, which looked lovely. We also shared a mussels meunière app, which was delicious.

At present, I am waiting on our laundry to be delivered. Cody and I went to pick it up at the assigned time, but it had to be sent out to another laundry service because the local machine broke. They don't open again until Tuesday, so I hope that the guy can find our B&B! 

Tomorrow, we head to Doolin, where the B&B advertises a view of the Cliffs of Moher. We will be there for three days, and hopefully, we will all be well enough to enjoy the sights and tastes of the area!

My Dingling

Isn't there a song with that title?

I struck out on my own because everyone else is puny. It is now 8:45pm and I am back and pooped out. It won't be dark for over an hour. Music in most of these pubs starts at 9:30 - and they always add "-ish." Grandpa here can't cut it. Hmmm - I may know someone else like that. Initials are "father of Charlie." Maybe if I nap tomorrow?

If you didn't already know, all signs here are in a minimum of two languages. 

I don't speak the first one. In fact, I am totally confused by it. I wish Europe would put all signs in about 5-6 languages. Yes, there would be signs a story tall or a bus wide, but I'm an arrogant tourist. I tried to blend in, but it takes about 15 seconds for me to be outed. Could be the silly hat protecting my balding head. Could be the hiking shoes, even in a nice restaurant. Could be the Canon around my neck. Could be that I and all members of my family whip out our cellphones when we enter someplace with internet access. Could be that we talk to the sheep.

I browsed in a few stores, found a laundromat for tomorrow, had a Black and Tan and a half dozen raw oysters out of Dingle Bay. Had awesome ice cream at Murphy's. (http://www.murphysicecream.ie)

Shopped for clothes as well. In fact, I had serious "lust in my heart" (a 1970's misquoted reference, chilluns - look it up) for a locally made Aran twead jacket. As I caressed the sleeve, I found the price tag. I immediately moved to lust for it from aross the room.

Walked the marina. This guy was trying to move his watercraft. The air is 50, I'm in a jacket, and the water temp is 52 (yes, I looked it up.). This guy is barefooted and in the water. 

Dingle is a seafood haven. In fact, if we make it, we have reservations tomorrow for lunch at Out of the Blue. From their website: 

Meat eaters need not apply:  Out Of The Blue is strictly for seafood lovers!

Everything depends upon the catch of the day and nothing but the best will do. If there’s no fish, the restaurant doesn’t open.

The menu, given on blackboards, changes every day offering a huge variety of whatever is available from the boats that morning.  

Anyone who is lucky enough to get a table in this small casual restaurant can expect seriously delicious seafood cookery.

One finds a few boats here. In various stages of creation.

One can also find a pub or two in Dingle. In every block of the downtown. This being the holiday weekend, I think we may find a keg or two more in the alley tomorrow.

This is something I did not expect to see on the main drag:

That is the local aquarium.  Haven't decided if I will go to that.

It is now bedtime. Catch you tomorrow. 

Hey to Charlie! 

Goin' Dingling

Cody and I walked in to get Vicki some medicine, then we all headed out of Kenmare for Kilłarney National Park. Once again, Cody and I saw some gorgeous scenery. Once again, on the side of the road, but this time on private property, we found an old ruin. We wanted to go in, but thought better of it. 

Further on, we also saw the Torc waterfall.

As gorgeous as the waterfall was, it was the surrounding woods that were incredibly green and enticing. There are ferns everywhere and trees, alive and fallen, are covered with moss. All the Irish lore about leprechauns and the little people seemed quite appropriate and applicable here.

(Not a leprechaun. Just caught tying my shoes by my son. He'd better watch it.)

Vicki, unfortunately, did not feel up to this short walk - or any other. She stayed in the car, napping when possible.

Next stop was the Muckross Abbey. We skipped the horse and buggy tours of the entire Muckross estate. Things are starting to get pretty touristy. 

Here's the sign. If you want to know more, you read about it!

Relatives?

More green!

So we just arrived in Dingle. This is our B&B.

But this is our view from the front lawn.

Couldn't take that shot without cars or busses in it - too many now. We didn't know what a big deal the bank holiday this coming Monday was, and it seems that half the country will be making a long weekend of it somewhere. So we have lots of company.

Tonight, it's time to go Dingling. I may be alone, given the state of my traveling companions. But I will see Dingle.

What a day!

So walking is always a lot of our vacations, especially when we go somewhere like France. But we don't always take in the local flora, or in this case, the local mountains and hiking trails. But we did yesterday and we had a blast. Gleninchaquin park was special. Cody was especially pleased.

The park also brought out some of his theatrical side.

There was another stone circle here. If you are going to have a stone circle, why not have it in a location like this? Location, location, location.

Then we drove in further - very slowly - and got to the main area with the trails, all beginning with this view of the waterfalls. It was gorgeous.

This is also a working farm, and there are sheep everywhere. Vicki and Cody do not see eye to eye on eating these. One sees cute, the other looks for mint sauce.

I definitely see wool. I've already decided I am leaving this country with an Aran Islands sweater (covering the extra pounds I am taking back). 

This is a 19th century farmhouse that is being restored.

There were several lakes on the hike. Neither my camera nor its amateur operator could capture the height or beauty well. I need more lessons.

That is Vicki and Cody down below me.

There were several stiles we had to cross and gates we had to pass through. All had to be be closed to keep the sheep where they were, although we saw sheep, or their evidence, everywhere we hiked. The technology varied from gate to gate. Some were much simpler than others, eh Cody?

Back in Kenmare, we chose to relax over lunch and shop around a bit. According to my spreadsheet, there were many things we should have been doing, but this was a very pleasant afternoon.

On the way back to the B&B, Vicki saw this church ruin and we checked it out. There was a cemetery adjacent, so we looked for any O'Keefes/Keefes/Keffes - any spelling will suffice.

Inside the tower...

Unfortunately, the day ended with Cody getting sick. So Vicki and I headed to the grocery for bread and cheese, and Cody headed for bed. 

This morning, Cody feels somewhat better, and Vicki seems to have caught whatever Cody had. I hope everyone feels better soon. We will all need help - and about 8 extra hours - if I have to drive.